Skincare interview – Fashions Finest

Back acne – why does it happen and how do we get rid of it? Let’s talk sebum, sweat and skincare products.

“You know the common story: Woman stops taking pill. Woman experiences acne. But, numerous word-of-mouth experiences aside, why does this happen to so many of us?” This question was recently put to me by Lucy Abbersteen of Marie Claire magazine. Here’s an excerpt of her article: “Pill useage declines steeply with age, from two thirds of women aged between 20 and 24, to just 11% of women in their late 40s,” explains consultant Dermatologist Dr Justine Kluk. “It’s not uncommon for women who have been on the pill for several months or years to notice a flare-up of acne after discontinuation – and the reasons for this are well documented.” “Acne affects 80% of teenagers, making it a very common problem. It also affects 10 to 20% of women over 25, a figure that is definitely on the rise. So this may be a recurrence of acne in those previously affected.” But, hang on – what about if you never experienced acne before the pill? Don’t get too excited. “Acne can also start in adulthood for the first time,” Dr Kluk adds. “In any event, the time of life when acne peaks is similar to the stage at which many women decide to start the contraceptive pill.” “The combined pill is in fact a very effective acne treatment and many women will find that their blemishes improve – or even disappear – as long as they are taking it. The oestrogen component appears to inhibit acne by a variety of mechanisms including reducing production of androgens (responsible for oil production and pore-blocking), and reducing the amount of active free testosterone in the blood.” Unfortunately, because of the individual differences at play and lack of research, it’s not known exactly how many women will see a flare-up or experience a first case of acne upon pill cessation. “The natural history of acne means that a proportion of women who take the pill will ‘grow out’ of their acne while taking the combined pill, and therefore won’t experience a flare-up when they stop taking it. Others, however, will find their acne recurs or appears for the first time once treatment is discontinued; which suggests the pill was masking the acne all along.” Long story short: You may have had acne all along but the pill was masking it, or you had it before and your contraception was acting as an acne treatment. If you are concerned about acne returning when coming off the pill, speak to your GP or see a dermatologist to put a plan of action in place. Dr Kluk adds that it’s worth noting some progesterone-only contraception (the mini pill, depot injection, progesterone coil or implant) can actually be acnegenic. “Use must be discussed carefully with your GP or gynaecologist if you have a history of stubborn acne,” she says. Click here for the full article. © 2018 Dr Justine Kluk. Any redistribution or reproduction of part or all of the contents of this post in any form is prohibited. You may not, except with our express written permission, copy, distribute or commercially exploit the content. Nor may you transmit it or store it in any other website or other form of electronic retrieval system.

I was recently featured on the home page of Get The Gloss talking all about my favourite beauty buys with journalist Judy Johnson. In case you missed it, I’ve posted a copy of the original interview just below. For details of where to find the products I’ve mentioned, click on the link at the bottom of this page to go to the article on the Get The Gloss site. Here goes… Where do you prefer to shop for beauty (on or offline) and why? In general, I prefer to shop for new beauty products in-store so I can test how they really look and feel before buying. There is a wonderful pharmacy just round the corner from my clinic on Harley Street (John Bell & Croyden) that carries all of my favourite skincare lines, so this is usually my first port of call. If I’m short on time and already know exactly what I want, or if a product is a bit niche and I don’t have time to trawl around looking for it, I will buy online from escentual.com or skinoracle.com. What’s the last makeup item you bought and why do you like it? I have a bit of a concealer habit and the last makeup item I bought was Bare Minerals SPF20 Correcting Concealer. It has a really nice creamy texture and gives good coverage, so I use it to cover dark circles under my eyes. I love the fact that it doesn’t crease or flake because the skin under my eyes tends to get quite dry as it is. My favourite concealer for covering spots, on the other hand, is the Vichy Dermablend corrector stick. And your most recent skincare purchase? I’m now in my mid 30s, so my top skin priorities are keeping blemishes at bay and also slowing the signs of ageing. This means that I use a product containing vitamin A – a retinoid or retinol – at night. There are a couple I go between, but I’ve just topped up my La Roche Posay Redermic R again. Which products do you gift to friends? I’m pretty strict about sticking to my skincare routine so don’t deviate all that much, even when given new beauty products to try. My sisters and my Mum will often volunteer to “help out” if I’m given something to test and it’s better suited to their skin than mine! In terms of buying gifts for friends, I will often pick a mask or something like that which can be used as a treat. Some of my favourites are the Skinceuticals Phytocorrective masque for soothing tired skin or Medik8 Natural Clay mask for soaking up shine. You have £500 to spend at a makeup counter. Which one do you choose and why? Ooh that’s tough. One of the nicest things about having good skin these days is not having to wear loads of makeup, so I tend to keep things quite simple. If I had £500 to splurge on makeup, I’d probably head to SpaceNK where I usually buy my staple products and add a few extras to the basket. Some of my all-time favourites are Nars – I like their Blush in Orgasm, Bronzing Powder in Laguna and I adore the new limited edition Nars Erdem lipstick in Bloodflower, Laura Mercier – Secret Camouflage Concealer, Eyeko – Brow Gel and Liquid Eyeliner and Hourglass – Liquid Powder Foundation and Veil Translucent Setting Powder. Have you ever had your makeup done at a makeup counter? Which brand and what did you think of it? I was always really self-conscious about my skin as a teenager so the idea of letting someone else do my makeup was terrifying. Once my spots were under control, I could finally enjoy getting glammed up. I had my makeup done at a Nars counter some years ago and was so thrilled with the result that I immediately went and bought all of the products that had been used. Sadly, I wasn’t able to recreate the look when I tried it on my own at home, but there were a few bits that I really loved and still use to this day. The Nars bronzing powder in Laguna is an example. What would be in your Boots or supermarket shopping basket beauty-wise? 1.Aveeno cream and body wash which are both moisturising essentials. 2.Bioderma Atoderm hand cream which I keep by the sink in my clinic and in my handbag. 3.Flexitol balm which I massage into my heels every night after I shower to keep my feet soft and smooth. 4.For my face, I prefer a really mild gel or cream cleanser and a simple, nourishing moisturiser as these help me to tolerate the active ingredients in my skincare routine better. La Roche Posay and Avene have great options. What’s your favourite budget beauty buy? Garnier Micellar Cleansing Water for sensitive skin. It’s super gentle and works just as well as other micellar waters that cost ten times the price. I use it every evening to take off my makeup before cleansing and also carry it in my gym bag so I can make sure my skin is squeaky clean before and after every workout. And the most expensive? Skinceuticals Phloretin CF serum is probably the most expensive skincare product I buy, but well worth the investment. It contains 10% pure vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and a host of other antioxidant ingredients which help to reduce damage to the skin from UV rays and city pollution. Unlike lots of other serums, it isn’t greasy and doesn’t clog pores so can be safely used on breakout-prone skin. Where do you get your hair done and what products and treatments/tools do you buy? I absolutely love my hairdresser (Mario Sammour in St John’s Wood) and keep telling him that he’s never allowed to move away or retire as I don’t know what I would do without him. My hair is very fine, but he makes it look like

In case you missed my facial sunscreen recommendation in “9 Facial SPFs Rated By The Experts” in Sheerluxe last week, this is what I had to say… “Having suffered with acne for many years, it’s important for me to use an SPF moisturiser every morning that gives effective UV protection, but won’t give me spots. Garnier Ambre Solaire Anti-Imperfection sun cream is a favourite – it’s non-comedogenic meaning it won’t block pores and contains salicylic acid to soak up shine and target blemishes.” – Dr Justine Kluk, Consultant Dermatologist. © 2018 Dr Justine Kluk. Any redistribution or reproduction of part or all of the contents of this post in any form is prohibited. You may not, except with our express written permission, copy, distribute or commercially exploit the content. Nor may you transmit it or store it in any other website or other form of electronic retrieval system.

SPF. Sensible, essential and non-negtotiable. So says journalist Anna Hunter this week in her round up of the new, non-greasy, innovative formulations that are making sunscreen easier than ever to adapt into your daily routine. Keep reading below for my full interview with Get The Gloss about SPF makeup. To see my quotes in the article, including product recommendations, click here. If you want to wear makeup as your sole form of SPF, what should you look out for?  I would strongly advise against using makeup as your sole form of SPF. We just don’t apply these products in a thick or even enough layer to get anywhere close to the level of protection provided by a typical sunscreen or sun protection moisturiser. Instead, makeup with SPF should be thought of as your second line of defence against UV rays once you’ve already applied sunscreen because two forms of sun protection are better than one. After cleansing, apply a broad spectrum (UVA/ UVB) sun protection moisturiser with SPF30 or higher to your face, ears, neck and chest. If you’re prone to breakouts, pick a non-comedogenic formulation that won’t clog your pores. Follow with an SPF-containing foundation or powder, depending on how much coverage you’re looking for. If you’re dashing in and out of the office during the day, remember to top up regularly. Would you have to wear a heavy layer or more than you might normally for adequate SPF protection? You would need to apply several times the normal amount of foundation, for example, to get anywhere near the level of protection stated on the bottle. Most of us just don’t want to put that amount of makeup on because it wouldn’t look good. Would you need to reapply SPF makeup throughout the day? Yes. If you’re exposing your skin to the sun, particularly between 11am and 3pm when it’s directly overhead, it is essential to top up your sun protection every couple of hours. Is there a formula that works best in terms of SPF protection (powder, liquid, solid)? Are SPF powders safe? To the best of my knowledge, there haven’t been any head to head studies published in the medical literature comparing the levels of sun protection from different types of foundation. I would therefore choose whichever formula or texture you prefer, provided you have already applied a dedicated sun protection product underneath. The challenge with powders is applying enough to get adequate protection. They are certainly convenient for top-ups, particularly in those who don’t like to wear heavy makeup and may also help soak up sweat that can cause your SPF to wear off, but shouldn’t be relied upon on their own. In terms of safety, skincare products are subject to rigourous scientific testing before becoming commercially available. If there is a concern about the ongoing safety of a particular type of product or research points to new health concerns, they are usually withdrawn pretty quickly. It would seem sensible to stick with reputable brands who specialise in sun protection and have a good track record for safety when selecting your products. Do you have any favourite SPF base makeup that you would recommend? Heliocare oil free compact SPF50 Colorescience Sunforgettable SPF30 or SPF50 Garnier Ambre Solaire nourishing lip protection stick SPF20 In terms of SPF in other makeup, what should you look out for when buying a lipstick/ lip balm/ under eye concealer etc?  For lip protection, your best bet is a clear lip balm or stick with the highest SPF that you can find. Most of those currently available are SPF15-20. If you can’t bear the thought of going without lip colour, apply your ordinary lipstick on top of the SPF balm, allowing a few minutes for it to soak in, or use the SPF lip balm as a type of gloss on top. My thoughts about eye shadows, concealers and other types of makeup with SPF are that they aren’t be applied in a thick enough layer to give any meaningful protection on their own so they must always be used as well as sunscreen, not instead of, and simply be considered a boost to whatever protection is already in place. © 2018 Dr Justine Kluk. Any redistribution or reproduction of part or all of the contents of this post in any form is prohibited. You may not, except with our express written permission, copy, distribute or commercially exploit the content. Nor may you transmit it or store it in any other website or other form of electronic retrieval system.