As you might expect, I am frequently asked for skincare product suggestions when the conversation turns to preventing signs of premature skin ageing. My top ingredient picks for healthier, brighter and more youthful-looking skin are as follows:
It is estimated that UV (ultraviolet) rays from sunlight are responsible for 80% of facial ageing. Pick a broad spectrum UVA/ UVB sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher. UVB protection reduces the risks of sunburn and skin cancer and UVA protection prevents dark spots, fine line and wrinkle formation. Apply every single morning, come rain or come shine and make sure you top up your protection during the course of the day.
The best researched example is vitamin C. Serums containing vitamin C e.g. L-ascorbic acid, tetra hexyl decyl ascorbate or sodium ascorbyl phosphate neutralise free radicals generated by UV rays and city pollution that degrade collagen leading to loss of skin firmness and elasticity. Vitamin C antioxidants can also help diminish the appearance of uneven skin tone, reduce dark spots and brighten our complexion.
These are vitamin A derivatives that boost collagen and promote cell renewal. When applied regularly to the skin, they improve skin texture and tone, tighten pores, reduce breakouts and minimise fine lines leading to smoother, firmer and brighter skin. They are usually applied at night to reduce photosensitivity (sensitivity to the sun) and need to be introduced gradually to reduce side effects e.g. dryness, tightness, peeling or irritation. A pea-sized quantity is sufficient for the face. Add more if you are treating your neck and upper chest too.
These prevent the build-up of dead skin cells which increases radiance and gives a brighter, smoother, more even skin tone. Examples include glycolic, lactic or mandelic acid. Be careful about combining these with retinoids without expert guidance as both are known for their potential to cause irritation.
Did you know that collagen production falls by 1% every year after the age of 25? Peptides, such as matrixyl, stimulate new collagen synthesis and are a great ingredient to look for in eye creams if retinol is not tolerated in the delicate eye area. Bonus points if they’re also found in your moisturiser or some of your other skincare products.
This is a powerful humectant, meaning it is capable of holding up to 1000 times it’s weight in water molecules so perfect for plumping dry, coarse, crepey skin. Given its soothing and hydrating abilities, it may also improve tolerability of ingredients like retinol or AHAs which can cause dryness and peeling when first introduced. A great ingredient to look for in your night cream.
So there you have it. My top tip, though….Keep it simple! I take this approach both to skincare and to cosmetic procedures. On the skincare front, it is so easy to end up with confused, congested and irritated skin if you chop and change your skincare products all the time and don’t allow them enough time to work. The same goes for trying to combine too many different ingredients into a routine. A few key items will do – you don’t have to use EVERYTHING just because you can.
Start by incorporating one or two ingredients into your daily routine to begin with and add sequentially as needed, or as tolerated by your skin. Even better, let us help you choose the combination of products that will work best together to meet your skin’s needs.